Jojo

Now in their 10th year, Curt Clingman and Mary Jo Thoresen don't tailor every menu item to the climate. Clingman's Steak aux Frites ($22.75) — Niman Ranch Flat Iron, crisp homemade fries, a melty plug of anchovy butter and a sprig of watercress — has been on Jojo's one-page menu since their doors opened. And for every Steak aux Frites (and we must be in the tens of thousands by now), Thoresen has surely sold a Chocolate Souffle Cake ($8.50), the one dessert she's offered since the start. "It's very particular," Thoresen says about the recipe: Baked too long, it's dry; not enough, it's wet. "I give that pan a little shake and see if it needs another minute or not." (Full review)